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The American
drive-through mentality is a boon to the quick-lube industry. After
all, we can sometimes get our fast-food fix and car's oil changed
during our lunch hour. Convenience comes at a price, though.
Most people don't
realize that they can often change their own oil faster than the
quick-lube places. In populous locations, prime-time turnaround seems
to be about 45 minutes. Granted, this includes other services such as
tire-pressure check and squirter-reservoir top-off, but many
do-it-yourselfers would rather save a little time and money—and have
the satisfaction of knowing that everything is done to their liking.
Oil Selection
As far as
most people know, motor oil is motor oil. But, this isn't necessarily
so. Just as different brands of gasoline have different chemical
blends, "additive packages" in oil varies among manufacturers. One
petroleum engineer told us that the average motorist can cut to the
chase simply by picking one brand of oil and sticking with it.
Consult
your owner's manual for recommended viscosity. This can vary by
region. Heavier-weight oil provides great lubrication in warm weather,
but it can thicken and make the vehicle difficult to start in the
cold. Also, synthetic oils have generally proven themselves to offer
superior performance over a longer period than "standard" fossil-based
oil. However, this improved performance comes at a higher cost.
Regardless of oil style and viscosity, realize that this fluid serves
two functions: lubricating and cleaning. Engine sludge is typically
transported in the oil, then trapped in the filter—similar to how our
kidneys clean our blood. The gist is that regular oil changes are the
best way to increase an engine's life. Because the filter traps grit
and also retains some oil, it should always be replaced when the oil
is changed.
Intervals
Consult
your owner's manual for recommended oil-change intervals. Newer cars
alert the driver when the oil needs to be changed, and the quick-lube
industry has done an excellent job of promoting 3 months or 3,000
miles—whichever comes first—as a safe interval. For the
do-it-yourselfer, an easy way to remember the 3,000-mile window is to
change oil every time the odometer hits 3300, 6600 and 0000.
Parts
Auto parts
stores are one-stop shopping for oil-change components. Oil is often
cheaper by the case, plus consider buying multiple filters so you
won't have to return to the parts store before your next oil change.
You'll also need a filter wrench and a receptacle for the old oil.
Other parts to consider are a magnetic drain plug or magnetic product
that mounts to the oil
filter. These will help trap the metal
particles that result from normal engine wear and tear.
Procedure
First, run
the engine to operating temperature. Then lift and secure the vehicle
using a jack and jackstands or ramps, apply the emergency brake and
block the rear wheels with chocks. Place the drain pan under the oil
pan and slowly remove the drain plug, being careful not to contact the
hot oil. The longer you can let the oil drain and drip, the better.
Inspect the drain plug for flaws, then reinstall it, taking care to
not over-tighten the plug and strip the pan's threads. Wipe up any old
oil from the plug and its surroundings.
Move
the drain pan under the oil filter. Using a wrench, break the filter
loose then spin it off by hand. Wear gloves, particularly if the
filter it still hot. Don't be afraid to get aggressive with a filter
that won't budge—after all, it's going to go bye-bye. Puncture, pry
and/or "persuade" the filter as necessary, being conscientious of the
mounting stud and other neighboring parts.
Prepare
the new filter by coating its gasket with fresh oil. If the filter
mounts somewhat vertically, pour some new oil into it to make the next
engine startup less dry. Wipe the filter-mounting stud and area with a
non-shedding rag or paper towel and install the new filter by hand,
tightening it per its instructions (usually about 3/4 of a turn after
the gasket contacts the mounting area).
Next,
fill the crankcase with oil, following the owner's manual's
recommendations. Using a funnel will minimize the chance of spilling.
Check underneath for leaks. If leak-free, lower the vehicle and start
it. Any oil-problem indicator lights should go off shortly after
starting the car. Finally, check the oil level with the dipstick.
Recycle used oil and filters at an approved facility.
Aside
from usually saving time and money, changing your own oil often helps
you recognize other potential problems (such as fluid leaks) before
they become crises. Changing oil isn't always pretty, but it's usually
pretty easy.
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